Marvel Crisis Protocol – Assembling and Painting CP05, M.O.D.O.K.

I will be doing an overview of how I painted M.O.D.O.K. (acronym for Mental/Mobile/Mechanized Organism Designed Only for Killing) for the Marvel Crisis Protocol (MCP) game. I won’t be going into a high level of detail, mostly outlining the colors I used and sharing photos of the stages of assembling and painting the M.O.D.O.K.

When I paint, I generally use layering and glazing techniques. I will thin my paints by using gunk (mixture of water, drying retarder, and flow improver), water, and/or Liquitex fluid matt medium. I use Vallejo thinner when thinning metallic paints.

Step 1 – Cleaning and Assembly

I use the following to clean the miniature:

  • Simple Green
  • Water
  • Nylon Brush
  • Brass Brush

I soak the miniature on the spurs in a mixture of one-part simple green and three-parts water for at least 30 minutes. Soaking the miniature in this manner will dissolve any mold release on the miniature. I then remove the spurs form the soak and scrub using a nylon or brass brush, leaving the parts on the spurs. I then rinse under cold water and allow to completely dry.

I use the following to remove the parts from the spurs and assemble the miniature:

  • Flush Cutters
  • Pliers
  • Super Glue
  • GW Mold Line Remover
  • Hobby Knife
  • Sanding Sticks
  • Clamps
  • GW Liquid Green Stuff
  • 1/16” Brass Rod
  • Pin Vice with 1/16” Drill Bit

I follow the provided instruction and assemble the miniature. I use flush cutter to remove the parts from the spurs and clean the injection points using a mold line remover, hobby knife, or sanding stick. I test fit each part before applying super glue and clamp any part I can allowing several minutes for the glue to set up and dry.

Once the miniature is together, I do the following:

  • Drill 1/16” holes in the through the smoke cloud all the way up to the head and insert 1/16” brass rod.
  • Trim the rod leaving roughly 1/16” of rod showing below the smoke cloud.
  • Apply a little paint to the tip of the rod and press the miniature down on the base, marking where I need to drill in the base.
  • Drill 1/16” a hole in the base using the mark.
  • Test fit then glue the miniature onto its base. (The rod will add strength miniature and help keep the miniature from separating from its base should it be dropped or mishandled.)
  • Using liquid green stuff, I fill in the seams on the miniature and smooth out with my finger and a hobby knife.

Step 2 – Priming

I use the following:

  • Hand Hold
  • Stick Tacky
  • Vallejo Black Primer
  • Vallejo Grey Primer
  • Vallejo White Primer
  • Vallejo Airbrush Thinner
  • Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver
  • Air Brush

Note: I use two-parts primer to one-part thinner, and one-part flow improver when priming. I apply primer lightly.

I do the following to prime the miniature:

  • Clean the miniature again using compressed air removing any dust or derbies.
  • Mount the miniature onto a hand hold using stick tacky.
  • Prime the miniature black using an air brush from roughly 12 inches away.
  • Prime the miniature grey using an air brush held at roughly a 45-degree angle, 12 inches away priming all around the miniature.
  • Prime the miniature white using an air brush held at roughly a 60-degree angle, 12 inches away priming the upper parts of the miniature.

Step 3 – Painting the Miniature

I use the following paints to paint the miniature:

Skin

  • P3 Midlund Flesh
  • P3 Ryn Flesh
  • P3 Skorn Red
  • P3 Battledress Green
  • GW Reikland Fleshshade
  • Reaper Grey Liner

Chair

  • P3 Brass Balls
  • P3 Molten Bronze
  • P3 Quick Silver
  • GW Nuln Oil

Hair

  • P3 Gun Corps Brown
  • P3 Battlefield Brown
  • GW Agrax Earthshade

Eyes and Teeth

  • P3 Menoth White
  • P3 Morrow White
  • GW Nuln Oil
  • GW Reikland Fleshshade

Suite and Headpiece

  • Reaper Hones Steel
  • Reaper Shadowed Steel
  • Reaper Polished Steel
  • GW Nuln Oil
  • P3 Piggy Purple Ink

Computer Screens and Gem on Headpiece

  • Reaper Pearl White
  • GW Contrast Blood Angle Red
  • GG Nuln Oil
  • P3 Red Ink

Smoke Cloud

  • P3 Ironhull Grey
  • P3 Menoth White Highlight
  • P3 Morrow White
  • GW Nuln Oil
  • FW White Ink
  • P3 Yellow Ink
  • P3 Blazing Ink
  • P3 Red Ink

Base

  • Reaper Stone Grey
  • Reaper Shadowed Stone
  • Reaper Weathered Stone
  • Reaper Grey Liner
  • GW Agrax Earthshade
  • Reaper Coppery Orange
  • Reaper Emerald Green
  • GW Nihliakh Oxide
  • GW Nuln Oil
  • P3 Sanguine Base
  • P3 Coal Black
  • P3 Sanguine Highlight
  • P3 Thamar Black
Base Coat
Shading on the Miniature
Dark Lining on the Miniature
Highlights on the Miniature
Glazing and Finial Highlights on the Miniature

Step 4 – Applying Varnish and Final Highlights

I use the following to varnish the miniature:

  • Vallejo Matt Varnish
  • Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver
  • Vallejo Airbrush Thinner
  • Airbrush

Note: I use three-parts varnish, one-part flow improver, and one part thinner when airbrushing the varnish.

I apply the varnish using an airbrush from roughly 12 inches away. I apply two thin coats of varnish to the miniature.

I use the following to finish the miniature:

  • Vallejo Gloss Varnish
  • P3 Quick Silver

I apply Gloss varnish to M.O.D.O.K.’s computer screens and gem. I then add a final highlight to his chair using Quick Silver

Conclusion

Every now and again I come across a miniature that assembles and paints just the way I want it. M.O.D.O.K. is one of those miniatures. There is nothing I would change about this miniature. M.O.D.O.K. is a fun miniature to paint.